Monday 24 July 2017

A DAY IN THE LIFE OF .....

Our day usually starts around 6.00am when the sun rises and the local birds, scooters, rickshaws and dogs start to make their presence known. It is a nice cool time of day and Wi-Fi is strong so a good time to check email and catch up with Face Book over a cup of tea. If the previous day’s weather has been cloud free and hot we can enjoy a hot shower – or a cooler one if not enough sun to heat the solar water tank.

Breakfast is normally coffee and toast with either honey, marmalade or marmite. As an alternative we may have cereal or yoghurt. We have not been brave enough to try to make the typical Keralan breakfast of Idli (savoury rice cakes), Puttu (steamed rice and coconut) or Idiyappam (steamed rice noodles) each served with some form of curry.

Stella is a habitual house cleaner so goes round ensuring everything is in order (washing, beds, floors) while Bill writes up the diary or this blog. If there has been heavy rain the day before Bill has to bail out water from the upstairs balcony - due to the leaking roof.

If we are going out we try not to leave before 10.00am to miss the rush (work here starts at 10.00). Even so it is slow going in the traffic and it can take over 30 minutes to travel just a couple of miles.

If we are not going out it is often because we are waiting for something or someone to come to the house. As time has no real significance this can be at any time - or not at all.

Lunch at home may be a sandwich, cheese and biscuits or Indian snacks - samosa or battered ‘something’ such as banana, green chilli or potato. The snacks may result from a walk up the road to buy milk or bananas.

Generally the shops close to us are small, often just kiosks. Buying local is a tradition in these parts and most things required for a Keralan family can be found here. Later in the day street stalls open up for fresh vegetables and fish (mostly small ‘dabs’ or prawns).

As we have not yet got into Keralan style cooking our food shopping is done in large hypermarkets such as Lulu or Ashis. These stock grocery items that we are familiar with and fresh meat which we can freeze. It does mean arranging a car to take us but we are going to try online shopping which delivers!

On those days we go out we tend to stop at a restaurant for lunch. Menus are pretty similar so we might go for chapatti, paratha, fried rice or noodles with either a meat, prawn or vegetable ‘gravy’ or dry fried chicken or beef. The staple lunchtime meal is biryani which may be all that is on offer at some places. On occasions we have bought this as a take away to eat later. There are lots of bakers that sell dried snacks and cakes but also filled rolls and small spicy pizzas (definitely not Italian!).

Our afternoons may be spent reading or writing and, in Stella’s case, ironing! By 5.30pm the insects and mosquitoes are starting to emerge so the doors are closed (by 6.30pm it is dark anyway).

Around 7.00pm it is time for a beer which we buy by the box full at the government controlled beer and liquor outlets. Stella has tried the cheap local white wine but is not impressed and misses her glass of French or even Chilean. On the other hand a cold Kingfisher Ultra is most acceptable after a hot day.

We haven’t really got into evening meals yet. We have had biryani and made chilli con carne, chicken curry, beef patties but nothing really adventurous. Strangely neither of us has much of an appetite due to the heat. In fact some evenings we have existed on beer and crisps!

If the power stays on we read or listen to the radio or CDs in the evening. If not we sit in the dark with our torches waiting for the lights and fans to be restored – not the most comfortable way to spend time and certainly not conducive for sitting down to a big meal!

And so our day ends at about 10.30pm.  

Saturday 22 July 2017

A TALE OF A TRUNK, BUREAUCRACY AND SILENCE

The problem of staying within airline baggage allowance is one thing when you are going on holiday for 2 weeks but what do you do if you are moving abroad for months? Even at 23kg per person this is barely enough for clothes and other essentials. The solution is to send other belongings separately. This was our answer and to this end we invested in a good quality trunk (not unlike the one I had for going away to school). Purchasing this was the easy part as this post explains.

The first question is fly or sail. Sending it by sea is cheaper but takes 4-6 weeks minimum. Air is faster meaning we could have the use of our things almost immediately – or so we thought! – and so we bit the bullet and booked DHL to fly it to Cochin.
The next issue was what to pack within the weight limit of 70kg (59kg after deducting the weight of the trunk). We had lots of books (cooking, language, reference, reading etc), kitchen equipment (our electric pressure cooker, knives etc), towels and sheets, laptop, internet radio, camera bits, sat nav, photo printer and so on, not forgetting jars of marmite and gravy granules! Each was weighed, packed and recorded in the online shipping manifest. Payment of £630 was made and the trunk was ready for its journey. It all seemed so simple but nothing could be further from the truth.
It all started well with DHL collecting the trunk on Monday 26th June with an estimated delivery date in Cochin of Tuesday 4th July.
As the following tracking info from DHL confirms the trunk left the UK before us and arrived in India hours before us even though it took a more circuitous route.
  June 26, 2017 13:43    Location : Oxford - UK    Status   : Shipment picked up
  June 26, 2017 18:15    Location : Oxford - UK    Status   : Processed at Oxford - UK
  June 26, 2017 19:57    Location : Oxford - UK    Status   : Processed at Oxford - UK
  June 26, 2017 19:58    Location : Oxford - UK    Status   : Departed from DHL facility in Oxford - UK
  June 26, 2017 22:11    Location : East Midlands - UK    Status   : Arrived at DHL facility in East Midlands - UK
  June 27, 2017 00:06    Location : East Midlands - UK    Status   : Processed at East Midlands - UK
  June 27, 2017 02:51    Location : East Midlands - UK    Status   : Departed from DHL facility in East Midlands - UK
  June 27, 2017 06:49    Location : Leipzig - Germany    Status   : Transferred through Leipzig - Germany
  June 27, 2017 06:49    Location : Leipzig - Germany    Status   : Departed from DHL facility in Leipzig - Germany
  June 27, 2017 13:50    Location : Bahrain - Bahrain    Status   : Transferred through Bahrain - Bahrain
  June 27, 2017 23:42    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Arrived at DHL facility in Bangalore - India
 At this point the trunk disappeared into a black hole called Indian bureaucracy due to a simple mistake in the shipping details. To explain, the online order form asked for the recipient’s name and phone number in India. Not being sure whether he would be there to receive it Bill gave a neighbours name and number. Big Error as now DHL India and India Customs expected Vincent to provide proof of identity to clear customs, but they failed to communicate this.
It was not until a week later and two days after delivery was expected that Bill rang DHL to find out where the trunk was. There followed a series of garbled phone calls and emails that could not have been less clear. The exchange simply highlighted the problem as being the Air Way Bill (AWB ie the paperwork) and even a letter addressed to customs explaining the reason for the mistake had no effect. And so our trunk sat on in Bangalore for a further 10 daya as no way were we going there to clear it.
  June 28, 2017 04:07    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Processed for clearance at Bangalore - India
  June 28, 2017 04:07    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Clearance delay
  June 29, 2017 09:27    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Clearance delay
  June 30, 2017 12:01   Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Clearance delay
  July 02, 2017 21:29    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Clearance delay
  July 03, 2017 23:09    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Clearance delay
  July 04, 2017 22:24    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Clearance delay
  July 06, 2017 11:29    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Clearance delay
  July 07, 2017 22:22    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Clearance delay
  July 08, 2017 21:41    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Clearance delay
  July 09, 2017 22:53    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Clearance delay
In desperation on Monday 10th July Bill contacted the CEO of DHL in the UK for help. Now we had a highly professional team on our side who quickly established that Indian customs required an amended AWB be created with the correct information. This was arranged but even so no one in India could give any indication of what the next actions were. Again numerous email flew between Cochin, Bangalore and the UK with the levels of frustration growing daily for another 8 days.
  July 10, 2017 17:37    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Clearance delay
  July 12, 2017 10:09    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Clearance delay
  July 13, 2017 13:37    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Clearance delay
  July 14, 2017 21:29    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Clearance delay
  July 15, 2017 22:22    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Clearance delay
  July 16, 2017 21:28    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Clearance delay
  July 17, 2017 21:47    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Clearance delay
  July 18, 2017 19:47    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Clearance delay 
Finally the bureaucratic impasse was breached and the trunk was cleared to be moved to Cochin. Yet again no communication of what was going on was given but eventually tracking showed it had been processed and was on its way to Cochin.
July 19, 2017 04:53    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Processed at Bangalore - India
  July 19, 2017 04:54    Location : Bangalore - India    Status   : Departed from DHL facility in Bangalore - India
  July 20, 2017 12:43    Location : Cochin - India    Status   : Arrived at DHL facility in Cochin - India
  July 20, 2017 16:07    Location : Cochin - India    Status   : Processed for clearance at Cochin - India
  July 20, 2017 16:08    Location : Cochin - India    Status   : Clearance delay
  July 21, 2017 09:40    Location : Cochin - India    Status   : Clearance delay
  July 21, 2017 19:29    Location : Cochin - India    Status   : Broker notified to arrange for clearance 
At long last on Friday 21st July we were contacted to attend Cochin airport customs to clear the trunk’s contents. If we thought this would be quick we were very wrong. First we had to get the AWB paperwork from the ground handling staff (and pay £41 for this). This is then examined at Customs reception and a fee paid (£6). This entitles access to the customs shed - But they shut for lunch so we have to wait …. and wait as our trunk is listed to be examined last. Two hours later it is our turn. It takes 5 minutes for the customs officer to rummage through the contents before a duty of £100 is calculated to be levied. This starts a chain of going between bank, reception and customs officer to obtain all the right signatures and stamps. Finally 6 hours after we arrived we get the gate pass that permits our driver to come into the secure area to load up, as confirmed by tracking.
July 21, 2017 20:13    Location : Cochin - India    Status   : Delivered to broker as requested
So we have our trunk at a cost of around £900. It very well might have been cheaper to buy everything in Kerala if you can find the right shops.

Would we send baggage by air again – probably, but this time we would do it with our eyes open.  The real lesson is for the couriers and handling agents who need to be more aware that there are naïve inexperienced people travelling out there who need hand holding at every step of the way when transporting personal effects. This is especially the case for high bureaucracy, low communication countries such as India.

In this part of the world the best advice is to treble any timescale you may be given and to push, push and push continuously for information and/or action!

Thursday 20 July 2017

THE VALUE OF POWER

“Kerala lies between the Arabian Sea to the west and the Western Ghats to the east and its coast is around 580 km long. Consequently its topography consists of a hot and wet coastal plain gradually rising in elevation to the high hills and mountains of the Ghats. Its climate is mainly wet and maritime tropical and is heavily influenced by the seasonal heavy rains brought up by the monsoon between June and August.

As a result, Kerala averages about 130 rainy days per year with an average annual rainfall of 3107 mm. In summer, most of Kerala is prone to gale-force winds, storm surges, and torrential downpours accompanying cyclones coming off the Indian Ocean. The average maximum daily temperature is around 32°C (90°F) with a minimum of 19.8°C (68°F).”

In Kerala the pleasantest time of day is before 9.00am when it is still cool from the night. After that the temperature gradually builds until it reaches its peak between 2-5pm. If there is rain around some heat is lost but the humidity rises often to 100%. The most unpleasant combination is when the temperature is high and the humidity is low. This is when a breeze or a fan is most welcome.

Every home has fans whether ceiling or floor mounted. Not all have air conditioning and those that do mostly have these in bedrooms. Their common feature is that they run on electricity but power supply in India is not always reliable and there are regular power outages. If you could see the tangled mass of cables that dangle from poles lining the roads you would understand why wind or falling objects cause power failures. Often supply may be restored quickly but can take hours or longer.

Loss of power is less of a problem for those homes that have an inverter installed. These effectively keep large batteries charged up which can automatically be switched to if power is lost. Without an inverter things can get rather uncomfortable especially after dark if there are no cooling fans and the only light is from candles or torches.
In countries like the UK we take constant power supply for granted whereas in India it is a precious commodity, the true value of which you only realise when it is lost.

Tuesday 18 July 2017

FORT KOCHI

Every visitor to Kochi has got to see Fort Kochi. It is the historic part of Cochin (its former colonial name) with many shops, stalls, museums and tourist attractions. These highlight Cochin’s long history and varied colonial past

Mattancherry Palace, also known as the Dutch Palace, was built by the Portuguese in 1555 AD. The Jewish Synagogue, otherwise known as the Paradesi Synagogue, is the oldest synagogue in India, built in 1568. The Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica, built originally by the Portuguese was elevated to a Cathedral in 1558, and a Basilica by Pope John Paul II in 1984.

Bolgatty Palace built in 1744 by the Dutch, is one of the oldest Dutch palaces existing outside Holland, and served as the home of the British Governors during the British regime.  The St Francis Church, built in 1503, is the oldest European church in India. It was in this church that Vasco-da-Gama was first buried before his remains were returned to Portugal in 1539 - his tombstone can still be seen there.

 Around the Vasco-da Gama Square a narrow promenade is a place to relax beside stalls full of fresh seafood and coconuts. Generally the waterside paths are a pleasant way to enjoy the cool breeze from the Arabian Sea while watching the famous Chinese fishing nets being raised and lowered.
 
Definitely a morning, if not a day's, worth of your time.
 



Santa Cruz Basilica

Chinese Fishing Nets
St Francis Church
 

KERALA LOVES TO PARTY

The beauty of staying with a family is two fold. First, you get to see and experience real family life and, second, you don't have to think about anything so can just enjoy being there.

Admittedly before throwing oneself into a family circle it does pay to spend two or three nights in a hotel if only to get over the travel and to acclimatise to the heat and humidity.

Our main purpose in coming to Kerala was to attend Shajoo's son's first holy communion and then the blessing of his new house. Both were interesting to witness but it was the party afterwards that impressed most. We had asked how many people would be there and were staggered to be told around 1200! Unbelievable but true. Not everyone was there at the same time but near enough everyone in the surrounding area came to eat and enjoy the celebrations.

Two rows of cauldrons of rice and different curries, together with pickles, breads and drinks ensured no one went hungry. And at the front the entertainers - musicians, magicians and jugglers - to keep everyone enthralled. Great fun and a pleasure to be part of, although attempting Indian style dancing in 80 degree temperatures is not to be recommended!



 

TRAVEL TIPS

Our arrival in India for our first visit did not start well. Two tips - don't travel with Air India and do arrive at your final destination from an international departure point.

We left London for Delhi two hours late on Christmas day and the flight never made up time which meant we had little time to get through immigration, collect our cases and make our way to domestic departures. The up shot was we arrived at the departure gate to find it closed although the plane was still there and the pilot passed us on his way to the cockpit.

No amount of persuasion worked and we had to return to the booking hall to arrange a new flight. This took hours leaving us feeling imprisoned - we could not go through to departures and could not leave the building due to the security on the entrance. Customer care is definitely not an Air India consideration at all.

To compound the misery we had to wait over 7 hours for the next flight and when we did arrive in Cochin our cases had been left in Delhi! Oh the joys of international travel.

From this low point things picked up as Shajoo and Biju were there to calm us down and drive us to our hotel. Unbeknown to us they returned to the airport to meet the next flight and brought our cases to the hotel ready for the morning.

The lesson is that Indian officialdom is a nightmare but the people of India could not be more helpful or hospitable!

Friday 14 July 2017

THE ORIGIN OF AN ODYSSEY

In December 2014 we made our first visit to India. As a holiday destination the south Asian country had never been our first choice. We had always enjoyed preparing and eating spicy curries but had no real desire to taste them on the sub-continent. As a place on the map Kerala had no more significance than other Indian states such as Gujarat or Maharashtra, perhaps even less so.

We had become aware of Kerala through Stella’s work. In the early 2000s she was deputy matron of a nursing home in Oxfordshire. The matron needed additional trained nursing staff and recruited a number of qualified nurses from Kerala. It was Stella’s task to supervise their adaptation to local practice in order to obtain their UK nursing registration. Over the succeeding years some moved away on gaining their registration and more nurses were recruited. Several settled in the local area and either continued working for Stella in one of the care homes she managed or took employment in one of the Oxfordshire hospitals.

Through this connection we grew to regard the individuals and their families as good friends rather than colleagues or acquaintances. Even so, despite this closeness, neither of us gave any deep thought to Kerala as a place to visit until early 2014.

Biji was one of the earliest Keralan nurses to be recruited and with her husband, Shajoo, and family had settled locally. She was now employed at the main Oxford hospital but Shajoo continued to work as a carer alongside Stella. So too Biji’s brother Biju who also worked with Stella and lived locally with his wife, Leena, and family.

While living and working in England Shajoo and Biji had been having a new house built in Kerala which was due to be completed at the end of 2014. They were planning a big housewarming party and really wanted us to be there. Our initial reaction to the invitation was to decline as we both had busy jobs and taking time off seemed an unrealistic dream. This changed when in the spring of that year Bill took early retirement and we decided that a trip to India was an opportunity not to be missed.

And so on 25th December 2014 our odyssey began, and has continued since.......