Saturday 23 September 2017

INDIAN ELEPHANTS

We love elephants. The first time we saw them was on a holiday in Kenya when we spent a night on an elephant reserve. Our tented chalet was next to a watering hole and at 5.00am we were sat on the veranda peering into the early morning mist. Now you might expect that you would hear an animal weighing over a ton approaching but not at all. The first we knew was when they emerged silently from the mist. They really are the most gracious of creatures albeit that this group of young bulls proceeded to run amok around our camp! Since then we have taken every opportunity to see them.
Of course there is a difference between the African and Indian elephant most notably their ears. The African’s skin is more wrinkled and their ears are much bigger reaching up and over their neck, whereas the Indian’s ears do not. If you look closely African ears are like a map of Africa and Indian ears are more like the shape of India. The African elephant is significantly larger too, and weighs more. They have fuller, more rounded heads with a single dome whereas Indian elephants have a twin-domed head with an indent in the centre.
All African elephants, male and female, have tusks, whereas only some male Indian elephants have tusks and these are generally smaller in size. Their trunk is also visibly less heavily ringed than the African and is harder enabling them to engage in heavy lifting tasks.

 
Over the course of our visits to Kerala we have seen captive elephants in wildlife sanctuaries. It must be hellishly boring being chained to heavy blocks or stumps all day except for a daily trip to the river or baths for a wash and brush up.

 
We have also seen working elephants, either walking to work or getting a lift on the back of a lorry. It makes you double take when you come up behind a lorry with a large elephant’s backside staring at you! At least they have some close human contact even if the person feeding them bananas thinks they need peeling first!

 But of course the best way to see any wildlife is running free in their natural surroundings.

The grace, majesty and gentleness with which they move is a sight to behold. However it cannot be forgotten that they are wild animals and every year a number of people are killed or injured from attacks by wild elephants.

A KERALAN WEDDING

Earlier this month we were privileged to be invited to a wedding in Kerala. Not just the wedding itself but also the preceding customary celebrations. Here is a description of the wedding formalities and a photos of Honey and Liju’s marriage.
Indian weddings are vibrant and colourful celebrations that bring together extended and far-flung family members, friends, colleagues and neighbours. Filled with rituals the days of the wedding are lively and energetic with everyone dressed to look their best.

Unlike other cultures, most of the Indian wedding traditions last more than a day and can sometimes run into weeks. There are elaborate rituals for preparing the bride and groom before the wedding, for the wedding day celebrations and for the post-wedding customs.

Finding a Partner
Christians don’t marry among their relatives so marriages usually begin with a search for a suitable partner. This commonly starts when a girl is aged 20 to 25, often after completing a degree, and for boys when they are between 25 and 30.
Unless possible partners are already known bride / groom wanted advertisements may be placed in newspapers or a marriage broker engaged. The first step once a possible union is found is Pennukanal in which the groom along with close friends and relatives come to meet the bride. If both bride and groom are in agreement outline details are discussed. In some areas, the bride’s family may make a return visit to the groom’s home to confirm that everything is okay.

Preliminaries
Once informal agreement has been reached the bride’s family (without bride) officially visits the groom’s house to fix the marriage (known as Orappeeru). In the presence of both sets of relatives the dates of betrothal and marriage are decided. Even though dowry is not legal, it has now taken a new form – gifts like cars, property, money or gold ornaments. After a lunch at the groom’s house, the bride’s family leaves after drinking a customary cup of black tea.

Before the betrothal, both the bride and groom are expected to attend a compulsory pre-marriage series of classes held over three days. These cover the entire ambit of married life and counselling and other classes are given by priests and educated people in how to live a family life. At the end of the course the necessary certificate is given for the marriage to take place in church.

Engagement
The next preliminary is that of the betrothal or engagement which is arranged by the bride’s family at her parish church. Betrothal is giving permission in public with both the bride and groom accepting their willingness to marry in front of the church and their relatives and friends. It is usually organised as a small marriage function with the groom and his family bringing a letter from their parish priest.

 

 
There is a short ceremony at church in which both bride and groom is asked their acceptance to marry. After this, a grand Sadya (a traditional Kerala meal served on a banana leaf) is served. After lunch, the groom’s family goes to the bride’s home where the groom is given money to buy dresses. Later, as customary, black tea is served as a send-off to the groom’s family.

 Once the betrothal is over and before the marriage, the marriage acceptance (Vilichu Chollal) is announced to the public / parish members of both bride and groom during mass on three consecutive Sundays. This ensures that there is no opposition to the marriage.

Before the Wedding
Gold and fine clothes are purchased for the marriage - usually the gold by the bride’s family and the marriage saree and manthrakodi by the groom’s family. The marriage saree is normally cream / golden or white in colour. The manthrakodi is a saree worn by the bride after the wedding ceremony and later for important family functions. According to custom, every bride keeps her manthrakodi carefully as this is the first present that her new family gifts to her, and may ultimately be buried in it.

The manthrakodi can be of any colour of the bride’s choice and is richly embroidered with gold and silver threads. 21 threads are carefully taken from it and woven into seven sets of 3 threads each. It is these threads that are tied around the bride’s neck as a ‘thali’ during the ceremony. The manthrakodi is given as a sign of marriage and follows a similar Hindu marriage custom.

The gold purchases include the wedding rings that are exchanged during the ceremony, embossed with their names. A gold minnu is purchased by the groom along with a chain for the bride. The minnu is a leaf shaped gold pendant with a cross embossed on it. After the wedding it is hung on a gold necklace whose length should come level with the bride’s heart when worn around her neck. The minnu and thali are given at the point of marriage and later the minnu is worn as an indication of a married woman. In a similar way, the bride’s family buy a chain for the groom.
The other jewellery worn by a bride for her wedding can include traditionally designed gold earrings, an intricately crafted neckpiece, a pendant worn on a red thread, a fine gold necklace, a diverse collection of bangles, and a necklace featuring a heavy pendant that is the highlight of the wedding ensemble.
 The night before the marriage a sweet ceremony (Madhuram Veppu) is conducted at the bride’s and groom’s homes. The bride / groom is placed on a seat and prayers are said before a senior relative asks the close relatives present whether the sweet should be given. The question is asked three times and if no defer the sweet is fed to the bride / groom. Essentially the ceremony is a get together of all relatives and friends before the marriage.

The Marriage
The marriage is usually arranged by the groom’s family at his parish church. In the morning the bride and groom get ready, say prayers and get blessings from their family elders. They are then taken to the church with the bride arriving first and then the groom. Little flower girls carrying flower baskets walk ahead to the altar followed by the bride, groom and their family members. Different baskets containing fruits, flowers etc are carried into the church. These are a symbol of prosperity and well-being.
Of all the Keralan Christian weddings, the catholic ceremony is the most solemn. There is no frivolity or excess of music that take away the auspiciousness of the occasion. The marriage itself is conducted after a holy mass. The bride and groom present themselves before the altar with their family members standing behind them followed by the rest of the guests. Throughout the ceremony, the entire congregation, numbering 100 to 500, stand with the women covering their heads with a scarf or the pallu of their saree. The thali, made using threads from the manthrakodi, the wedding rings, chains and rosary are placed on a tray in front of the altar.
The bride and groom stand before the altar and light a lamp. The priest then reads verses from the Bible which are sometimes chosen by the bride and groom beforehand. He also speaks much about the relevance and importance of marriage, linking it to many contemporary issues. Thereafter the couple is directed to hold their right hands and make solemn affirmation to remain in life-long loyalty to each other and remain as one in thick and thin.
After this is Minnukettu, the most important ritual of a Kerala Christian marriage. The bride kneels in front of the groom, facing the altar. The priest blesses the manthrakodi and gives it to the bridegroom who drapes it over the bride’s head. The priest then dips pieces of holy bread in wine and gives it to the bride and groom followed by the family members.

The minnu is blessed and the priest hovers it around the couple’s heads in the form of a crown. This is repeated three times and the couple is crowned King and Queen of their new life together. The groom ties the thali around the bride’s neck and rings are exchanged. After all the formalities are over the priest directs the couple to drink from a single tender coconut simultaneously using two straws.
On completion of the rituals the bride and groom take the oath of marriage and sign the register.

The Wedding Feast
Once the ceremony is over the bride and groom make offerings to the church before being led to the grand feast of marriage. Here they light candles and cut the cake before feeding it to each other and to close relatives. The cake, which has been a part of wedding celebrations since the Roman times, is a symbol of good luck and fertility. The sharing of this food symbolizes the couple’s willingness to fulfil each other’s needs, creating a simple yet strong bond.

 
 It is also traditional for them to drink tender coconut water but frequently this may be champagne. As the liquid is poured the bride and groom make wishes for their good fortune, a better future and the best life possible for themselves. Once the feast starts, the bride changes her wedding dress from the marriage saree and puts on the manthrakodi.

For the wedding feast or sadya there is often a minimum of 20 dishes, though the count can go as high as 40, complete with dessert and fruit. Served on a banana leaf the dishes typically include pickle, thoran, avial, sambar, dal, meat and fish curries, pappadam and rice as well as other dishes. Ice cream is a popular desert.

Aftermath
Later after the feast, everybody gathers at the groom’s home where his mother welcomes the bride and groom by blessing them and giving them a rosary as a memory of their marriage. The bride and groom are given sweetened milk and sweets.

Finally the bride is handed over to the groom’s mother by her mother. Her mother will also give a gold chain to the groom and in return he will gift a saree back to the bride’s mother. Lastly, as is customary, black tea is served before the bride’s family leaves with the bride remaining at the groom’s house.

The day after the marriage a series of ceremonial family visits (virunnu) commence. Both bride and groom are invited by their respective relatives to visit their homes where they are treated to mouth-watering dishes, a process that can last for months!
 And thus a splendid Keralan wedding draws to an end.

MONSOON

When we arrived in Kerala at the end of June we knew it was the monsoon season but we really had no idea what to expect. We have since discovered that monsoon does not mean day long periods of rain but intermittent heavy downpours followed by hot sun, although there can be longer periods leading to local flooding.

        Flooding in Kochi           Life goes on despite the flood
The weather in Kerala falls into three distinct seasons. Winter is the peak tourist season from December to February when the weather is relatively cool and dry. From March to May the summer season is very hot and humid. In between is the monsoon season from May to November which divides between the South-West Monsoon and North-East Monsoon.

The South-West Monsoon is the main rainy season. It begins by the end of May or early June with the onset of the rain bearing winds coming off the Arabian Sea from the southwest, and lasts until the end of September. During these months there are periods of torrential rain due to the presence of the fort like Western Ghats that flank the east of the state preventing the winds from progressing further into the central and eastern states. As a result almost 85% of the rains received in Kerala are contributed by the monsoon with the slopes of the Ghats recording the highest rainfall.
Not the weather for boating          Only option to take shelter
The North East Monsoon, also known as the Retreating or Reverse Monsoon, hits Kerala as rain clouds coming off the Bay of Bengal pass through the Palakkad Gap in the Western Ghats. These rains are in the months of October and November and can last until December. Heavy afternoon rains accompanied by thunder and lightning is the main characteristic of this season. Days are warm and humid but there is not much variation in temperature which normally ranges from 28° to 32°C (82° to 90°F) on the seaward plains.
       Short sharp shower               Lightening turns night to day
Winter in Kerala starts with the end of the northeast monsoons during the later part of November and lasts until the middle of February. During this season temperature is comparatively low and witnesses the lowest amount of rainfall.

Toward the end of February temperatures start climbing and this marks the beginning of Kerala’s summer lasting from March until the onset of the monsoon. Relatively higher temperature, low rainfall and slightly humid weather are the summer’s characteristics.
Western Ghats in cloud               The Ghats at Wayanad
In contrast to other Indian states where temperature can soar to over 40°C, summers in Kerala are cool and pleasant thanks to the Western Ghats which prevent the dry northern winds from entering the state and the Arabian Sea offering cool breezes. Despite this somewhat erratic rains accompanied by lightning and thunder is a feature of this season.

Kerala does not have incessant rains that stop all activity. It generally rains for a few hours with sunny interludes. Occasionally the rains might stretch on for a few days but sunshine is never far away. It is claimed that Monsoon is the best season for rejuvenation as during the Monsoon season the atmosphere remains dust-free and cool, opening the pores of the body to the maximum.  
Our experience so far is that the monsoon at worst floods our balcony and at best keeps us indoors – but we keep in mind that winter is on its way!