No one disputes that there is a problem with alcohol abuse
amongst many Indian men, and Kerala is no different. The state has a high per
capita consumption of alcohol which at 8.3 litres, is double the national
average of 4 litres. Where there is disagreement is over political solutions.
In 2014 the previous Congress led administration introduced a
near-complete ban on alcohol envisioning a complete ban by 2025. In pursuit of
this only five-star hotels were granted hard liquor licenses and beer and wine
could only be sold in dedicated ‘parlours’. Hundreds of bars were forced to
close, including bars in 5 star hotels within 500m of a highway. Alcohol could
still be sold for private consumption at one of the 338 state owned Kerala
State Beverages Corporation (KSBC) shops, but that 10% of these would be closed
every year.
Since the new LDF government was elected in 2017 it has
announced that Kerala is returning to the old days and reversing the
prohibition. It will allow three-star and four-star hotels to run bars, while
two-star hotels can run beer/wine parlours. Under the new rules, alcohol can be
sold at airports, toddy can be served at hotels and there will be relief for
bars and hotels affected by the 500 metre ruling. The minimum drinking age has
been raised from 21 to 23. Toddy, a locally produced mildly alcoholic palm wine made
from the sap of palm
tree, will continue to be legally sold, and toddy shops will be permitted to
operate as earlier.
The reasoning for the change in policy is essentially economic
with the loss of tourism and jobs but evidence indicates drug consumption
increased as did bootlegging.
So alcohol does continue to be available but not on ‘dry
days’. These are specific days when the sale of alcohol is prohibited. They are
fixed by state governments and most observe dry days on major religious
festivals/occasions and national holidays. In Kerala the first day of each
month is a dry day.
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Normal hotel bar with Shajoo and Biju |
We are all, I assume, familiar with bars in hotels as convivial
well-lit spaces where all genders can buy and enjoy a drink. In contrast the
beer and wine parlours I have visited are less inviting. Essentially they are
dedicated drinking dens for men only, often dimly lit, and more redolent of
dockside bars of the 1950s and 1960s. Most do not sell alcohol for taking out
meaning purchasing for home consumption has to be made at KSBC shops.
KSBC shops can equally be uninviting. The standard counter
where the cheaper locally produced bottles are sold involves queuing to get to
a metal screen through which orders are placed, money paid and bottles handed
back. At certain times of day scores of men jostle to get their fix.
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Queuing for alcohol |
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High security counter |
In contrast many shops have a premium room where imported
bottles are sold. These tend to be less crowded due to the higher prices and are
self-service so altogether far more convivial. However anyone expecting brands
available in Europe will be disappointed. Wines are Indian made in other states
and spirits are Indian blends.
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Premium sales room |
Despite the plethora of rules and the effort required to get
a drink there is still nothing better than a cold beer on a hot and humid
Keralan day. Cheers!
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